Since a custom fan duct caused the heat block on my printer to cool down enough to have a negative impact on PETG printing, I adjusted the auto PID tune aswell as the default PID values.
Also adding a precompiled hex file of all the previous changes.
• Added auto PID tune of heatbed to the special TFT menu
•Enabled automatic saving on both PID tune commands
• Added preheating and mesh leveling commands to the special TFT menu
• Mentioned changes in readme
After getting my extruder to work reliably on a Vref of 1.100V on the TMC2208, I had to adjust my e-steps quite a bit from the original value from Anycubic. Assuming you have a TMC2208 on a similar voltage, this might work well right after flashing, calibrating your e-steps is recommended in any case.
Enable heatbed PID mode and add several tweaks
Enable PIDTEMPBED and add several tweaks
• Enabling heatbed PID tuning
• Tweaking default hotend PID
• Enhancing MMBL grid from 9 points to 25 (3x3 to 5x5 -
fair warning, leveling might take a few minutes now!)
• Increasing buffer and lowering baudrate to ensure smoother prints via USB
• Removing some redundant stuff to save memory
Thanks to @NetrunnerAT for his recommendations!
Co-Authored-By: NetrunnerAT <netrunnerat@users.noreply.github.com>
Enable PIDTEMPBED and add several tweaks
• Enabling heatbed PID tuning
• Tweaking default hotend PID
• Enhancing MMBL grid from 9 points to 25 (3x3 to 5x5 -
fair warning, leveling might take a few minutes now!)
• Increasing buffer and lowering baudrate to ensure smoother prints via USB
• Removing some redundant stuff to save memory
Thanks to @NetrunnerAT for his recommendations!
Co-Authored-By: NetrunnerAT <netrunnerat@users.noreply.github.com>
Using TMC2208 in standalone mode, I've inverted the stepper direction to match Anycubics pin layout. M110 memory watcher was removed due to redundancy and - ironically - to save memory.
David Ramiro