Updated Should I install external MOSFETs? (markdown)
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### My answer to this:
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As long as you don't replace the bed with something stronger, you don't need an external MOSFET at all. Neither for bed nor for hotend.
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As long as you don't replace the bed with something more powerful, you don't need an external MOSFET at all. Neither for bed nor for hotend.
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The original ones on the board don't even get lukewarm and are designed for much higher currents. The clamps are perfectly fine too. The little electricity that goes through there is switched loosely. We're only talking about a MOSFET here. This is a "switch that turns a heater on and off". And only as well as the main processor controls. No more and no less. Just in and out.
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The original ones on the board don't even get lukewarm and are designed for much higher currents. The clamps are perfectly fine too. The little electricity that goes through there is switched loosely. We're only talking about a MOSFET here. This is a "switch that turns a heater on and off". And only as well as the main processor controls. No more and no less. Just on and off.
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And seriously: I've seen defective external MOSFETs more often than anything else. And then they roast the power supply. The self-made cabling is also often not the yellow of the egg.
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And seriously: I've seen defective external MOSFETs more often than anything else. And then they roast the power supply. The self-made cabling is also often not the best thing.
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So what's the point? Correct. It feels like "tuning". But it is not.
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@@ -43,10 +43,10 @@ Back to the subject of "security":
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6. Better alternative solution: A real upgrade in terms of security is that you cut off the tip-soldered leads to the board one centimeter (so that the solder is off and the strands are free again) and instead a real cable lug (wire sleeve) with the appropriate crimping pliers crimps.
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Background: Soldered cables in any type of screwed terminal pose a danger. The soldered ends are "hard" and the screw can be tightened firmly. But it doesn't stay that way the longer you are connected. The more current flows, the faster the solder / solder will soften and contract under the screw.
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**Background**: Soldered cables in any type of screwed terminal pose a danger. The soldered ends are "hard" and the screw can be tightened firmly. But it doesn't stay that way the longer you are connected. The more current flows, the faster the solder / solder will soften and contract under the screw.
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The result: the screw is loose, the contact is poor and heat is generated due to the high contact resistance. -> The clamp burns down! ... and yes, that is a realistic scenario that has occurred several times.
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**The result**: the screw is loose, the contact is poor and heat is generated due to the high contact resistance. -> The clamp burns down! ... and yes, that is a realistic scenario that has occurred several times.
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Cheap solution: Shorten the cable with the side cutter and strip it again. Then twist the strands and screw them into the elevator clamps.
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**Cheap solution**: Shorten the cable with the side cutter and strip it again. Then twist the strands and screw them into the elevator clamps.
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Better solution: As described above, crimp a wire sleeve firmly onto it. This prevents the strands from "dangling around" and prevents possible short circuits.
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**Better solution**: As described above, crimp a wire sleeve firmly onto it. This prevents the strands from "dangling around" and prevents possible short circuits.
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