This is my slightly customized version of the [Marlin Firmware](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin), gratefully based on [derhopp's repo](https://github.com/derhopp/Marlin-with-Anycubic-i3-Mega-TFT) with his remarkable efforts to get the Anycubic i3 Mega TFT screen to work.
I am running this version on an i3 Mega Ultrabase V3 (for distinction of the different versions, check [this Thingiverse thread](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-i3-mega/forums/general/topic:27064)).
Basically, this should work on every Ultrabase version that has two Z-axis endstops. The new Mega-S could work too but is not thoroughly tested. E-steps need to be set to 384 (`M92 E384.00` + `M500`), and calibration is recommended as per the instructions below.
Note: This is just a firmware, not magic. A big part of print quality still depends on your slicer settings and mechanical condition of your machine. Since I have reduced the acceleration and jerk settings a bit, depending on your slicer the estimated print time might be around 20% lower. You can compensate that loss of speed by raising the general print speed without losing quality.
## Known issues:
- Special characters on any file or folders name on the SD card will cause the file menu to freeze. Simply replace or remove every special character (Chinese, Arabic, Russian, accents, German & Scandinavian umlauts, ...) from the name. Symbols like dashes or underscores are no problem.
**Important note: On the SD card that comes with the printer there is a folder with Chinese characters in it by default. Please rename or remove it.**
- The firmware is not reflected on the TFT-display. As the display has its own closed source firmware, you will remain to see the original Anycubic menu showing the old version number (1.1.0).
- Cancelling prints via display is buggy sometimes, simply reboot the printer when the menu shows an error. Protip: Switch to OctoPrint.
- A few parts cooling fan models (e.g. some Sunon 5015) might have trouble running slower than 100%. If that's the case, use [this release](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/releases/tag/v19.01.22-pwm).
- Many people have issues getting the Ultrabase leveled perfectly, using Manual Mesh Bed Leveling the printer generates a mesh of the flatness of the bed and compensates for it on the Z-axis for perfect prints without having to level with the screws.
- Much more efficient bed heating by using PID control. This uses less power and holds the temperature at a steady level. Highly recommended for printing ABS.
- Fairly loud fans, while almost every one of them is easily replaced, the stock FW only gives out 9V instead of 12V on the parts cooling fan so some fans like Noctua don't run like they should. This is fixed in this firmware.
- Very loud stock stepper motor drivers, easily replaced by Watterott or FYSETC TMC2208. To do that, you'd usually have to flip the connectors on the board, this is not necessary using this firmware.
I provided three different precompiled hex files: One for no modifications on the stepper motor drivers - good for people who didn't touch anything yet, one for boards with TMC2208 installed and where the connectors have been flipped and one with TMC2208 and the connectors in original orientation.
- If you use TMC2208 and already reversed your connectors, use `Marlin-AI3M-XXXXXX-TMC2208_reversed.hex`
- If you use a newer version of the TMC2208 that doesn't require the connector to be reversed (TMC2208 "v2.0" written on the PCB, chip on the top side), please also use `Marlin-AI3M-XXXXXX-TMC2208_reversed.hex`.
- Look for the .hex file in your temporary directory, e.g. `.../AppData/Local/Temp/arduino_build_xxx/` (only the `Marlin.ino.hex`, not the `Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.hex`!)
- Enter the special menu by selecting it and pressing the round arrow:
![Special Menu][menu]
- In this menu, the round arrow is used to execute the command you selected.
- Preheat the bed to 60°C with this entry: (if you usually print with a hotter bed, use the Anycubic menu)
![Preheat bed][preheat]
- Level your preheated bed as well as you can with the four screws.
- Start the mesh leveling:
![Start MMBL][start]
- Your nozzle will now move to the first calibration position.
- Don't adjust the bed itself with screws, only use software from here on!
- Use a paper - I recommend using thermopaper like a receipt or baking paper
- Use the onscreen controls to lower or raise your nozzle until you feel a light resistance: (If you want to send the same command multiple times, select the item again, even though it is still marked red.)
![Z axis controls][control]
- Once finished , move to the next point:
![Next mesh point][next]
- Repeat the last two steps until all 25 points are done.
- Your printer will beep, wait 20 seconds and then save:
- You can repeat the process if you want to get even more precise, you'd have to replace 92.6 with your newly calibrated value in the next calculation.
- Turn on parts cooling fan If you have a radial blower fan like the original one, I generally recommend running it at 70% because of the 12V mod (`M106 S191`). Remember to also limit it in your slicer.
Note: These commands are tweaked for PLA printing at up to 210/60 °C. If you run into issues at higher temperatures (e.g. PETG & ABS), simply change the `S` parameter to your desired temperature
**Reminder**: PID tuning sometimes fails. If you get fluctuating temperatures or the heater even fails to reach your desired temperature after tuning, you can always go back to the stock settings by sending `M301 P15.94 I1.17 D54.19` and save with `M500`.
Some updates require the storage to be cleared (`M502`), if mentioned in the update log. In those cases, before updating, send `M503` and make a backup of all the lines starting with:
```
M92
G29
M301
M304
```
After flashing the new version, issue a `M502` and `M500`. After that, enter every line you saved before and finish by saving with `M500`.
Marlin is an optimized firmware for [RepRap 3D printers](http://reprap.org/) based on the [Arduino](https://www.arduino.cc/) platform. First created in 2011 for RepRap and Ultimaker printers, today Marlin drives a majority of the world's most popular 3D printers. Marlin delivers outstanding print quality with unprecedented control over the process.
If you have coding or writing skills you're encouraged to contribute to Marlin. You may also contribute suggestions, feature requests, and bug reports through the Marlin Issue Queue.
Before contributing, please read our [Contributing Guidelines](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/.github/contributing.md) and [Code of Conduct](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/.github/code_of_conduct.md).
### Marlin Resources
- [Marlin Home Page](http://marlinfw.org/) - The latest Marlin documentation.
- [Marlin Releases](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases) - All Marlin releases with release notes.
- [RepRap.org Wiki Page](http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin) - An overview of Marlin and its role in RepRap.
- [Marlin Firmware Forum](http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?415) - Get help with configuration and troubleshooting.
- [Marlin Firmware Facebook group](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1049718498464482) - Help from the community. (Maintained by [@thinkyhead](https://github.com/thinkyhead).)
- [@MarlinFirmware](https://twitter.com/MarlinFirmware) on Twitter - Follow for news, release alerts, and tips. (Maintained by [@thinkyhead](https://github.com/thinkyhead).)
### Credits
Marlin's administrators are:
- Scott Lahteine [[@thinkyhead](https://github.com/thinkyhead)]
Marlin is published under the [GPLv3 license](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.0.x/COPYING.md) because we believe in open development. The GPL comes with both rights and obligations. Whether you use Marlin firmware as the driver for your open or closed-source product, you must keep Marlin open, and you must provide your compatible Marlin source code to end users upon request. The most straightforward way to comply with the Marlin license is to make a fork of Marlin on Github, perform your modifications, and direct users to your modified fork.
