Move sections to the wiki
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David Ramiro
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README.md
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README.md
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@ -5,19 +5,22 @@ This is my slightly customized version of the [Marlin Firmware](https://github.c
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Feel free to discuss issues and work with me further optimizing this firmware!
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I am running this version on an i3 Mega Ultrabase V3 (for distinction of the different versions, check [this Thingiverse thread](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-i3-mega/forums/general/topic:27064)).
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Basically, this should work on every Ultrabase version that has two Z-axis endstops. The new Mega-S could work too but is not thoroughly tested. E-steps need to be set to 384 (`M92 E384.00` + `M500`), and calibration is recommended as per the instructions below.
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Basically, this should work on every Ultrabase version that has two Z-axis endstops.
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**The new Mega-S is not officially supported. You can try your luck, but I have no means of troubleshooting issues with that machine. E-steps need to be set to 384 (`M92 E384.00` + `M500`), and afterwards calibration is highly recommended as per the instructions on the [Wiki](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/wiki/Extruder-Calibration/).**
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Note: This is just a firmware, not magic. A big part of print quality still depends on your slicer settings and mechanical condition of your machine.
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#### Make sure to take a look at the [Wiki](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/wiki/), especially the [FAQ](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/wiki/Frequently-Asked-Questions).
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## Known issues:
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- **Cura users: Please turn off jerk and acceleration control in your print settings (not visible by default, select advanced visibility to unlock them). Cura's high default jerk and acceleration might cause shifted layers if you use TMC2208.**
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- Estimated print times from your slicer might be slightly off.
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- Special characters on any file or folders name on the SD card will cause the file menu to freeze. Simply replace or remove every special character (Chinese, Arabic, Russian, accents, German & Scandinavian umlauts, ...) from the name. Symbols like dashes or underscores are no problem.
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**Important note: On the SD card that comes with the printer there is a folder with Chinese characters in it by default. Please rename or remove it.**
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- The firmware is not reflected on the TFT-display. As the display has its own closed source firmware, you will remain to see the original Anycubic menu showing the old version number (1.1.0).
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- Cancelling prints via display is buggy sometimes, simply reboot the printer when the menu shows an error. Protip: Switch to OctoPrint.
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- A few parts cooling fan models (e.g. some Sunon 5015) might have trouble running slower than 100%. If that's the case, use [this release](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/releases/tag/v19.01.22-pwm).
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## Why use this?
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@ -53,9 +56,9 @@ I provided three different precompiled hex files: One for no modifications on th
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- Clone or download this repo
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- In the IDE, under `Tools -> Board` select `Genuino Mega 2560` and `ATmega2560`
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- Open Marlin.ino in the Marlin directory of this repo
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- Customize if needed (e.g. motor directions and type at line `559` to `566` and line `857` to `865` in `Configuration.h`)
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- [Customize if needed](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/wiki/Customization-&-Compiling) (e.g. motor directions and type at line `559` to `566` and line `857` to `865` in `Configuration.h`)
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- Under `Sketch`, select `Export compiled binary`
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- Look for the .hex file in your temporary directory, e.g. `.../AppData/Local/Temp/arduino_build_xxx/` (only the `Marlin.ino.hex`, not the `Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.hex`!)
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- Look for the .hex file in the Marlin directory (only use the `Marlin.ino.hex`, not the `Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.hex`!)
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### After obtaining the hex file:
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@ -65,9 +68,10 @@ I provided three different precompiled hex files: One for no modifications on th
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- `M502` - load hard coded default values
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- `M500` - save them to EEPROM
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## Calibration & Tuning
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#### Calibration and other instructions have been moved to the [Wiki](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/wiki/Calibration).
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### Manual Mesh Bed Leveling
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## Manual Mesh Bed Leveling
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If you have issues with an uneven bed, this is a great feature.
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@ -143,45 +147,10 @@ G26 C H200 P25 R25
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```
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- To adjust your filament's needed temperature, change the number of the `H` parameter
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- If your leveling is good, you will have a complete pattern of your mesh on your bed that you can peel off in one piece
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- Don't worry if the test looks a bit messy, the important thing is just that the line width is the same all over the mesh
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- Optional: Hang it up on a wall to display it as a trophy of how great your leveling skills are.
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### Calibrating extruder & PID
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### Extruder steps
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- Get your old E-Steps with `M503`. Look for the line starting with `M92`, the value after the `E` are your current steps.
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- Preheat the hotend with `M104 S220`
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- Send `M83` to prepare the extruder
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- Use a caliper or measuring tape and mark 120 mm (measured downwards from the extruder intake) with a pencil on the filament
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- Send `G1 E100 F100`
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- Your extruder will feed 100 mm of filament now (takes 60 seconds)
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- Measure where your pencil marking is now. If it's exactly 20 mm to the extruder, it's perfectly calibrated
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- If it's less or more than 20 mm, subtract that value from 120 mm, e.g.:
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- If you measure 25 mm, your result would be 95 mm. If you measure 15 mm, your result would be 105 mm
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- Calculate your new value: (100 mm / actually extruded filament) * your current E-Steps (default: 92.6)
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- For example, if your markings are at 15 mm, you'd calculate: (100/105) * 92.6 = 88.19
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- Put in the new value like this: `M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 Exxx.xx`, replacing `x` with your value
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- Save with `M500`
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- Finish with `M82`
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- You can repeat the process if you want to get even more precise, you'd have to replace 92.6 with your newly calibrated value in the next calculation.
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### PID tuning
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**PID calibration is only necessary if you experience fluctuating temperatures.**
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- Turn on parts cooling fan If you have a radial blower fan like the original one, I generally recommend running it at 70% because of the 12V mod (`M106 S191`). Remember to also limit it in your slicer.
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- Send `M303 E0 S210 C6 U1` to start extruder PID auto tuning
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- Wait for it to finish
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- Send `M303 E-1 S60 C6 U1` to start heatbed PID auto tuning
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- Wait for it to finish
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- Save with `M500`, turn off fan with `M106 S0`
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Note: These commands are tweaked for PLA printing at up to 210/60 °C. If you run into issues at higher temperatures (e.g. PETG & ABS), simply change the `S` parameter to your desired temperature
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**Reminder**: PID tuning sometimes fails. If you get fluctuating temperatures or the heater even fails to reach your desired temperature after tuning, you can always go back to the stock settings by sending `M301 P15.94 I1.17 D54.19` and save with `M500`.
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## M600 Filament Change
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![M600 Demo][m600 demo]
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