Updated TMC2xxx troubleshooting and mainboard repair instructions (markdown)

Oliver Köster
2022-02-08 16:06:06 +01:00
parent 200e015836
commit 849911980c

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
# Troubleshoot
# Troubleshooting
> ## _**I accidentally installed my drivers the wrong way round and when I switched on the mainboard released magic smoke**_
@@ -8,19 +8,19 @@ When that happens, you unfortunately have to buy new drivers because at least on
The following picture shows an intact board with the diode still intact:
[[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/master/images/diode_closeup.jpg | width = 800px]]
[[/images/diode_closeup.jpg | width = 800px]]
When this burns down, however, a small flame is created that comes out of the housing and melts a hole in it:
[[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/master/images/burnt_diode_closeup.jpg | width = 800px]]
[[/images/burnt_diode_closeup.jpg | width = 800px]]
So we solder out the old defective diode, take a new one out of the bag, cut off the legs so that they are not too long and solder them to the board.
[[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/master/images/1N4733.jpg | width = 800px]]
[[/images/1N4733.jpg | width = 800px]]
Please pay attention to the polarity. The black bar must point to the left, as shown in the photo.
[[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/master/images/new_diode_closeup.jpg | width = 800px]]
[[/images/new_diode_closeup.jpg | width = 800px]]
That's it The board should now run again. If not, a fuse could be defective (above the diode), but that is rare when installing the driver.
@@ -36,17 +36,17 @@ The only way to test this is to build it in. However, with three simple tests yo
A sure sign of a defective driver is a burn hole or discoloration of the chip, similar to a burned Zener diode. Everything that does not look 100% clean can be sorted out.
[[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/master/images/burnt_stepper.jpg | width = 800px]]
[[/images/burnt_stepper.jpg | width = 800px]]
**2. Measure the resistance of the motor power supply**
To make sure that we don't have a short circuit in the driver that blows our fuses or, in the worst case, the whole board, we simply check the resistance between **GND** and **VMOT** (the designations can change, but the pins are always the same). Here the resistance should be very high (in the megohm range) and not in the direction of 0 (short circuit). It also always makes sense to compare ALL drivers. If the values are all identical, it looks good ... if one deviates, it will be defective.
[[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/master/images/stepper_vmot_gnd.jpg | width = 800px]]
[[/images/stepper_vmot_gnd.jpg | width = 800px]]
**3. Measure the resistance of the driver power supply**
The same game as with VMOT, only this time on the VDD pin. The value should be measurable in the kilo-ohm range. If 0 Ohm or "infinite" is displayed here, the driver is for the barrel.
[[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/knutwurst/Marlin-2-0-x-Anycubic-i3-MEGA-S/master/images/stepper_vdd_gnd.jpg | width = 800px]]
[[/images/stepper_vdd_gnd.jpg | width = 800px]]